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- BD atc guide vs Reverso - Mountain Project
As mentioned up thread, if using a Reverso Guide GiGi, rope age and diameter are critical, as is using a nice round-stock carabiner Josh's method at belay transitions is ideal, and is my preferred technique, with the seconds being belayed on a GiGi and the leader being belayed with another device (GriGri, Reverso, etc )
- It probably doesnt matter but. . . ATC alpine vs. reverso?
The Reverso does handle smaller ropes better than the full ATC (and vice versa for the ATC handling bigger ropes better), but I would still be concerned that when using a single strand of a super skinny rope in guide mode, the Reverso's tubes would be large enough to allow the load and belay strands to capsize and defeat the autoblock
- Favorite ATC-style device with top belay guide mode and steel wear points?
After burning through my latest Petzl Reverso shockingly fast I'm thinking about an ATC with steel wear points for a bit more longevity, smoothness on lower rappel and eco-friendliness I know it's a minor change and won't save the world but I thought it was a little silly how consumable some ATCs are
- Giga Jul vs Mega Jul - Mountain Project
Comparitively, the Petzl Reverso 4 (and newer version) wear out pretty fast and much faster than the standard BD ATC guide To Noel's point, basic round stock carabiners are pretty cheap and a wear item (i e the Metolius round stock locker or simple BD Rocklock) if you are doing lots of lowering or raps on any tube device
- favorite multi-pitch belay device? - Mountain Project
The reverso takes more effort to belay in auto block mode on thicker, stiffer less supple ropes The guide takes a little more effort to control speed on rappel (at least for me @ 200lbs), but this is easily remedied buy adding a second biner on rappels
- Recommendations for assisted braking belay device for multipitch alpine . . .
Just because you _can_ use the reverso mega jul alpine-up to top belay doesn't mean they're the best tool for the job Using a grigri lifeguard trax (caveat emptor) is so, so much easier on your body - my arms are less sore after 6-7 top-belayed pitches with the lifeguard than 2-3 with the GIGI or DMM Pivot I used to use
- DMM Pivot vs good ol ATC Guide? - Mountain Project
Moved Permanently The document has moved here
- Half twin rope belaying devices and friction with lt; 8. 0 mm diameter
Yes, but the rope diameter is also within the Reverso's range and I did not like the breaking performance of it; slip on rappelling was quite strong The Giga Jul is stating on its side that it is working with 7 1 to 10 0 mm ropes, but half ropes are only rated from 7 9 to 9 2 mm
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