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REMOVE AND REPLACE PRESS FIT ALTERNATOR PULLEY I'm in the process of changing out my stock v-belt pulley system and replacing it with a serpentine belt kit The kit that I'm using is from March Performance Here's my problem; the stock belt pulley is press fit as is the supplied serpentine pulley from March I don't think that I'll have
Alternator Overcharging, Blue Wire with Stripe 1972 Charger Problem is that since owning this Charger, have had a constant battle with overcharging the electrical system It caused me to burn down a battery on Power Tour in White Plains, Georgia Decided to fix it Normal driving was showing 16 5 volts as confirmed by testing Would turn on the cabin
Alternator Help for 1969 RR - For B Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum In the 2 field connection alternator, the 12 volt rotor supply current goes through the rotating field connections (brushes) back to the voltage regulator Inside the voltage regulator, the main component is a switching transistor, which when it turns on, grounds the alternator field causing the alternator to charge
Bulkhead connector how to. . . . . - For B Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum Ok so call me a dork, the Bee is dead, no power to anything, pretty sure its the fusable link Ho the heck do you remove the bulkhead connector? Never done it before and dont want to ruin anything, besides not being able to get a good view of the darn thing with out crawling over the fender
For Sale: Not Mine - 1966 Charger Hemi 4 speed coming to GAA auction . . . Since you ask, battery, wiring looks really stunning with the aftermarket ends on it, alternator looks from a generic part store, hose clamps and upper hose, the zip tie near the battery , the click clack fuel pump on the passenger side rail is a nice touch to saying we want it right, shall I continue? Would I drive it yup! After I repair the safety issues and make it reliable
how to wire tic toc tach? - For B Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum Hello, I just wired my Charger with the Tic Toc Tac The dash frame is the ground (-), the long screw on the back is the power for the tach, which would be the blue (+), this goes to the fuse block The gray with the red tracer goes thru the firewall and to the negative (-) side of the coil The gray wire sticking out with the terminal is power for the clock Hope this helps
Fluctuating ammeter with turn signal and brake operation. It sounds like the alternator is charging fine One factor in the ammeter reading is where the current is coming from ; it will come from both the battery and from the alternator If the battery is weaker or the battery circuit connections into the car are poorer, then most of the current will come from the alternator and show up on the meter
Battery Topper Kit and cap color chart - For B Bodies Only Classic . . . Here is a chart for what you need Green Caps: 1966-1969 with 225, 273, and 318 engines and 48 amp alternator 1968-1969 with 340 engines and 48 amp alternator 1970-1973 with 225, 318, and 340 engines and 46 amp alternator 1973 with 400 engines and 59 amp alternator 1974 with 225 and 318 engines and 48 amp alternator Yellow Caps: