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How do I consistently drive drywall screws to the correct depth? The biggest mistake you can make when screwing in drywall is to drive the screw too deeply, tearing the paper outer layer The paper is what's holding the plaster inside together enough to be screwed down in the first place, so keeping it intact is the key to a secure connection
Finishing drywall: How do I finish over screws that refuse to recess . . . If I had known in the beginning what I know now, I would have installed the QuietRock as the first layer and used special backer board screws with a square-shaped bit since this phillips bit wants to slip out of the screw head with a loud "ratta tat tat!" So now I am stuck with some screws that stick out slightly from the surface of the drywall
Are these drywall screws driven too deep into the sheet? The other problem with driving drywall screws with a regular #2 Phillips bit is that screws driven too deep will not have the holding power and the screws will pull through, leaving the sheet unattached to the studs This is especially important when hanging rock on ceilings These are the proper tools and bits
What is the weight capacity of your typical 2 1 2 drywall screw when . . . The shear strength of drywall screws is pretty weak, because they placed most of the design in the threads and the head to grip the drywall rather than in the shaft of the screw The screw itself will bend and break pretty easily, which is why you mount things with appropriate brackets and bolts into the stud when you need to hold a lot of weight
What are the implications of driving a drywall screw too far into the . . . This is a critical repair for drywall on the ceiling, and a very good idea for drywall mounted on the wall I wouldn't go through any added effort to tear down the drywall, since it's still perfectly good Just add the extra screws and be happy you caught the problem before experiencing a collapse
screws - hole too big for anchor but anchor is still stuck - Home . . . There are two ways to securely attach something to drywall: Find the studs with a stud finder, and screw directly into the wood This is the best way, but the distance between the studs might not fit the preferred distance of the shelf brackets
What do I do if drywall screws wont penetrate the studs? If the drywall pops, use two or more screws 2-3" apart, slowly sinking each one to distribute the load If the heads pop off (tension), use the same procedure only this time, run the screw backwards until it hits the stud, creating a relief This countersinks the drywall and will help you set the screws with a poor drill or unhappy hard wood
Should I use nails or screws for hanging drywall on the ceiling? Nails, when driven in drywall are countersunk slightly and give a much larger area for drywall Screws are the cheap way for pros to go and they will always take the cheap over the better I have been in 400K and 600K new home that are a few years old and you can see the screws holes due to the tiny countersunk and steep dent that mud was put into
Drywall screws visible - Home Improvement Stack Exchange If the drywall is glued to the studs, as is standard in modern practice, the stud will pull the drywall inward as it contracts, but the screw remains stationary If the screw is even a little bit too long, the screw head will become be visible If your drywall is indeed glued to the studs, then you can simply remove the screws, patch, and repaint
Drywall surrounding vent no longer supports screws; Screws that normally fix the vent in place can't do their job anymore The drywall has crumbled to the point that the tapped hole for the screw lacks a boundary with the duct (Picture attached ) Perhaps: The cutout for the original vent larger than necessary, forcing the screws to be closer to the duct than is optimal?