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Canterbury knife (was Osmund knife) - Show and Tell - Bladesmiths . . . It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax boiled lineseed oil gum turpentine) I happened to already have those ingredients It has quite a potent smell It didn't change the appearance of the leather or the carvings, unlike an earlier test soaking leather in wax Making sheaths is fun
Recommendations for minimising decarb - Bladesmiths Forum Board I want to harden some small things with a lot of surface detail Probably made from W2 Can you guess what I'm thinking of? I guess that avoiding decarb would be greated challenge to keeping the surface detail hard? I have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against
Edge Quench or Soft-back Draw? - Bladesmiths Forum Board What I have use to edge quench is a roasting pan filled with my version of Goddard's Goop Its a mixture of pan drippings, vegetable oil, old candles, and a little parrafin At room temperature it's hard in the pan and it's easy to transport and store I like to take a piece of scrap steel and melt a chanel in the goop before I quench my blade
Quenched with Rutlands asking advice - Bladesmiths Forum Board The goop helped me from spilling transmission fluid and or other oils all over the place but that's as far as it goes I'll get a better edge quench without it I will re-do this piece, normalizing it 3X, and I will try the clay again in water I'll move through the sanding process with progressive grits as outlined
Quench Tank Ideas - Hot Work - Bladesmiths Forum Board You do not want to quench the handle tangs, so an edge quench in the goop with the handle tangs hanging down might work IF you use a steel that hardens well in goop, which limits you to an alloy slow quench steel like 5160 or O-1
Cutlers resin - Fit and Finish - Bladesmiths Forum Board If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off Apparently they had glue like that in the Bronze age It can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart The Japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira) The Japanese call it nikawa
Traditional Hatori Polishing Tips - Bladesmiths Forum Board Speaking from experience, you're not going to get a traditional polish with modern abrasives There's just something about tojiru goop, and fingerstones that does things that nothing else will My theory is that modern abrasives are too uniform and too hard to break down properly Also, don't forget to make or buy decent nugui Dry iron oxide artist pigments make a reasonable substitute If
Issues forge welding - Hot Work - Bladesmiths Forum Board Are you using flux? Is the smoke goop from the MIG welder getting in between the layers? Finally, how hard are you hitting it to set the weld? If you're using flux and smacking it really hard to get the flux out, you may be blowing the weld apart on impact Gentle taps until you know it's solid
BLO vs RLO? - Fit and Finish - Bladesmiths Forum Board Just an aside- tung oil is in the same boat Most of what is available is mixed with BLO and has drying agents You can still get raw tung, you just need to search it out So yeah, depends on what you are doing If I'm mixing up some handle goop for modern style knives I use BLO If I am trying to keep a degree of authenticity, I might use the raw product